Through school of hard knocks and a lot of time spent with bow tuning wizards, I have learned to tune a compound bow so thoroughly and meticulously that it will shoot straight and true arrows as far as you can. wish it. It’s called micro-tuning, and it’s often touted by top shooters. It’s a handy skill to have, but the buzz around micro-tuning has created a big misconception. He left everyday hunters and casual shooters with the idea that bow tuning requires serious technical expertise, plus a pinch of magic.
This is simply not the case.
If your goal is just to tattoo a white tail within 40 yards, which is more than half of all archery hunters in the world, you can learn how to set a compound bow on your own. It’s actually quite easy. Here’s your step-by-step guide to getting a good basic melody that will allow you to stack arrows on target in normal hunting fields.
How to Adjust a Compound Bow, Step 1: Attach the Arrow Rest
It is normal, in a way, that the first step is to attach a bracket to the bow riser. You can’t go very far tuning a bow without it, of course, but also when it comes to a simple, basic setting for hunting, it’s small tweaks to the rest, more than anything, that will fix it. the problems you are having.
So, first, use a vise to fix your bow in a horizontal and vertical position. (There are many good bow vises out there, and they aren’t very expensive.) Now just follow the manufacturer’s instructions to attach the rest to the Berger hole in the riser (or holes), or to the face of the riser. riser, depending on the type of rest you have. If you have a Whisker Biscuit or Hostage type leftover, you’re done for now. If you have a folding footrest, connect the footrest cord to the downlink bus cable or limb, again, following the manufacturer’s instructions. Don’t worry about the rest being perfectly positioned at this point, just set it up correctly. Now notch an arrow and use an arrow level – these are widely available and only cost a few dollars – to determine your notch point. Then tie in a D-loop.
Tuning a Compound Bow, Step 2: Timing a Fall Rest
If you have a fall rest, use the adjustment marks (see owner’s manual) to adjust the rest speed. Have a partner watch for the marks as you get to full fill. As a general rule, the adjustment marks should line up as the arc breaks and goes to the trigger. If your mount does not have adjustment marks, have your assistant note the position of the throwing arm as you draw the bow. The arm should reach the upright position just as the arc breaks. If not, just tighten or loosen the cord as needed.
Tuning a Compound Bow Step 3: Adjusting the Center Stroke
Now you want to define the center shot. Simply put, the center hit is the perfect alignment of the arrow rest to the notch point on the string. Read your bow manual for an initial center fire setup. The most common location is between the center of the arrow shelf (measured from the riser) and 3/16 of an inch to the left of center for a right handed shooter. Another option is to measure a notched arrow on the front and back of the riser, moving the rest to the left or right until these two measurements are the same. All that being said, you can easily watch it; hit an arrow and move the rest left or right until, from an overhead view, the arrow appears to extend through the center of the riser (like a long stabilizer would). This is how I do it, then I fix the issues later while adjusting the paper. If you have a laser or an arc square, they work well for finding the center hit as well.
If you are using a drop stand, the next step is to stand near a foam target and shoot an arrow. Listen carefully for everything wap, slam, or noise. This indicates severe arrow contact at rest. Also pay attention to the position of the arrow in the target. While the bag targets will be found, a good foam target will show how the arrow entered. If adjustments are needed, speed up the rest or slow it down by adjusting the cable. You can also manipulate the rest up, down, left, or right as needed.
If difficulties persist, use foot spray powder. Spray the inside of the launcher, the arrow shelf and the last 7 inches of the arrow. Shoot the painted arrow into the target, carefully remove it, and look for the marks. Make any necessary adjustments until it comes out clean.
Arc tuning Step 5: stretch the string
Now that you can send arrows down without any fringe or resonates, take a few shots to familiarize yourself with the grip, and tighten your archery form. It does two things. First of all, you want to have good form when setting a bow on paper, and this shooting session serves as a warm-up. Second, it stretches the strings and cables a bit, which will help your bow stay in tune when you’re done.
Arc tuning Step 6: Adjust the paper
You can make a paper tuner out of anything. I cover an old window frame with writing paper, stapled on the outside. Set up your paper tuner with a target behind it. Make sure you leave enough space between the paper and the target for the arrow to go all the way through. Stand 10 feet from the paper, make sure you have a good grip, relax and shoot an arrow. Now observe the tear. Chances are the tear is not perfect. Do not panic. The next part is easy.
Use a arrow tear reference chart to identify the type of tear you have. Once the tear is diagnosed, edit the rest. About 90% of all tearing issues can be resolved by moving the arrow rest slightly up, down, left, or right. For example, a left notch tear can usually be rectified by moving the rest to the right, and vice versa. With any resting movement left or right, you effectively change the center stroke, which is why the eyeball works great during the early stages. Do you have a big tear? No problem. Move the rest up or move your notch point down. For a low notch tear, drop the rest or raise the notch point. If you take your time and micro-adjust your rest, common adjustment issues will be eliminated.
If you have a slightly unstitched tear that you can’t get rid of, don’t worry. Some bows shoot better this way. Go ahead and aim in your bow. If he stacks arrows in the kill zone up to 60 yards, don’t think anymore. Plus, you don’t need to check your bow often. As long as they shoot well, that’s fine. Don’t overthink it.
How to tune a compound bow, last step: back tuning
Once everything looks good, the last step in adjusting a compound bow is to adjust on foot. Get a large foam target and using a simple plumb bob as a reference, run blue or orange painter’s tape in a vertical line from the top of the target to the bottom. Then, towards the top of the target, pass another line of tape horizontally. On a calm day, stand 20 yards away and shoot a single arrow at the exact spot where the two pieces of tape intersect. If your paper air is good and your arrow hits to the left or right of your aiming point, manipulate your sight. Repeat this process up to 40 yards, using the same 20 yard pin. The goal is for each arrow to line up along the vertical piece of tape.
If, however, your arrows are gradually threading to one side or the other as they move down the ribbon, you will need to make a very slight adjustment to the left or right of the arrow rest. Then pull again and adjust as needed until they come down along the strip in a straight line.
Once the adjustment process is complete, use a silver Sharpie to mark the position of your upper and lower cams where each meets the upper and lower limbs. These marks are great reference points if you need to readjust the line.
The. You have finished. You’ve learned how to set a compound bow, and hitting the target on your next dollar won’t be a problem, as long as you stick together.